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Author Topic: HDD PCB layout/ Identifying component ?  (Read 696 times)
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shinn_asuka
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« Reply #15 on: March 02, 2010, 11:25:48 AM »

@shinn_asuka
Please edit your post and translate it into English because Pedro isn't a Filipino, he's from Portugal.

Take care and God bless. Smiley

to put it simply, your BIOS settings is set to AHCI so it enable SATA mode with NCQ, maybe another issue is the temperature of your PC, if it reach 40+ degree celsius of your HDD, better consider add more fan...too bad, it never revert from the start...
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Pedro
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« Reply #16 on: March 04, 2010, 12:55:55 AM »

Quote
If a big cap just like the one on the power port side explodes or burns then it means that there may be a sinister problem with your power supply

Maybe not, because I had another hard drive and it is still working fine.

Quote
to put it simply, your BIOS settings is set to AHCI so it enable SATA mode with NCQ, maybe another issue is the temperature of your PC, if it reach 40+ degree celsius of your HDD, better consider add more fan...too bad, it never revert from the start...

What's AHCI? and NCQ? Grin
The temperature had nothing to do with it because the pc cover was open, so, lot's of air to the HDDs, besides, the drive is short circuited, if I plug the SATA power in it, the pc power source goes down imediately.


Ok, so here's what I got so far: I desoldered the cracked capacitor, pluged power to the drive, and nothing, no noise, no 'clicks';
(here's again a picture of the drive, with the cracked capacitor signaled in red, before any desoldering):

http://public.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pD4zK-jkL_GEEqX5Q9pLEKv3e-OL5ab9qV-EJxUyp1HtJySnh1HN8szy7IpdWtky4PC7Ryj_-wPoCOrw2Z2XnjQ/P9060241.jpg
HDD PCB layout/ Identifying component ?
Higher resolution HERE

...then I desoldered the TVS in the upper left corner (the bigger one, black), still nothing. Next I desoldered the smaller TVS (right under the place where the cracked capacitor was), still a useless paperwheight. Finally I desoldered the remaining capacitor (in vertical position), and again, nothing Angry

Just to be sure, I tested the both TVS (they are diodes) and they conducted current just one way, meaning they are fine, and the capacitor charged and discharged, so it is fine too. EDIT: only the second capacitor was good, the first (cracked) is virtually a conductor
The culprit must be in other place, but where? none of the other components has burn marks/cracks.

Before desoldering, I tested the conductivity between power rails, and I got some strange results: from 3 pins that are supposed to be GND, 1 isn't connected to the others, the same to the 3 12V pins. And one GND pin (nr. 4) is connected to the 3,3V rail
It's because it's damaged, you're thinking... well, the same thing is happening to the other functioning drive. In fact, the browser from where I'm writing this, as well as the Duran Duran track that I'm listening now, are stored on that other drive.

I analysed the bad drive a little more, when I noticed something strange: all the pins, pads, vias, components of the PCB were electrically connected Shocked every capacitor, to every pin of every chip. It's as if the air itself was a good electrical conductor, so everything is connected/shunted. Oh, and the same thing happens to the good drive.. what the hell?!
« Last Edit: March 05, 2010, 08:41:40 PM by Pedro » Logged
mikeer2002ph
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« Reply #17 on: March 04, 2010, 10:50:42 AM »

pedro, i think at this point, we're better off with having the complete PCB taken out, and just put in another PCB from a good drive (remember option 1?) since im suspecting there's more damage than initially thought of
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comtechoy
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« Reply #18 on: March 05, 2010, 06:19:03 AM »

this is the problem for surface mount components. its hard to troubleshoot because they have no labels. we need here the circuit diagrams to be exact what the value of defective smd's.

your drive won't operate because as I've seen the picture there is still missing component.
I agree the suggestion of bro mikee.
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Pedro
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« Reply #19 on: March 05, 2010, 08:40:05 PM »

pedro, i think at this point, we're better off with having the complete PCB taken out, and just put in another PCB from a good drive (remember option 1?) since im suspecting there's more damage than initially thought of

Perhaps you're right. Now I have to bid on ebay or something... Sad


this is the problem for surface mount components. its hard to troubleshoot because they have no labels. we need here the circuit diagrams to be exact what the value of defective smd's.

your drive won't operate because as I've seen the picture there is still missing component.
I agree the suggestion of bro mikee.

Yes, and another problem is that I can't find diagrams anywhere.
What missing component are you refering?
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comtechoy
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« Reply #20 on: March 05, 2010, 11:17:25 PM »

What missing component are you refering?

@ ST IC terminal. It's open circuit because its supposed to be connected to the ground (-).
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Pedro
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« Reply #21 on: March 06, 2010, 04:33:43 AM »

Oh, that one, I almost forgot about it Grin, for everything it's going on with the other components.
But I don't think that's the cause, because with all the components I took out, at the very least the drive should spin, and it didn't. That cap is for coupling, or at least 'data related' issues, not 'power related'.

What I have here is short-circuited power rails, or power not being routed to the motor drives (probably both)

Agh... Cry
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shinn_asuka
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« Reply #22 on: March 06, 2010, 11:29:23 AM »

AHCI = Advance Host Controller Interface, much faster than IDE when it comes to SATA version
NCQ = Native Command Queuing, increase the performance of your SATA HDD but decrease the wear of the SATA HDD if it keeps on faster...
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« Reply #23 on: March 06, 2010, 01:44:11 PM »

@shin

The temperature had nothing to do with it because the pc cover was open, so, lot's of air to the HDDs, besides, the drive is short circuited, if I plug the SATA power in it, the pc power source goes down imediately.

He was saying that the drive itself doesn't work well due to the busted pcb components (either the caps, diodes, resistor, etc..). You can't access such special features (AHCI, NCQ) of the hdd if it's intermittent (or worst case scenario, doesn't boot or recognized in the bios)... If you were referring to the smart status of the drive, it would be a different case.. Smiley
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